Sunday, March 18, 2012

Barely Bariba


I know. I’ve been a bad blogger. However, that does not mean that I have been curled up in my house in a depressed lump, or decided to give up all electronics, or, perhaps, forgotten how to speak the English language. Rather, I’ve just been incredibly busy, preferring to lie prone on workstation couches when in range of internet instead of pecking away at my laptop. I still love you. I’m just lazy.

Six months have passed now at post, and each month has brought with it new challenges, pitfalls, and accomplishments. That may seem cliché, but the emotional rollercoaster that Peace Corps Volunteers ride can be compared to no other. Learning how to deal with failure has been an absolutely profound challenge, as has been the lack of respect for scheduled meetings. This, however, makes the successes that much more wonderful. I no longer stand tentatively at my door, anxiously garnering the nerve to step outside of my house and immerse myself into Benin (a common phenomenon among new volunteers). Rather, I have boldly dined upon frog (like chicken), danced alone for large groups of spectators (not pretty), and determined that magical amount of sass needed to navigate Beninese life as a white person (a lot). 

As intimated,a long with this experience and confidence have come work related challenges. How, for example, can I be effective when my work partners live six miles away? Or if I can’t speak the local language in a village where few know French? Or if problems of “access” for the villagers seem insurmountable? Indeed, often I feel as if I’ve found a solution to a local problem, only to look a little further along the line to see that the problem is inextricably knotted to another “lack”, and then to another. What looked like a very manageable section of rope from afar is actually, upon much closer inspection, a tightly tangled mess. Compost is the perfect example. It is probably even a development worker’s dream solution, and they see the problem as that very manageable and tangible section of rope: one can sit in their office from abroad, note that the female gardeners of Benin face decreasing soil fertility, observe that the women don’t use compost, and boldly declare, “Compost is the solution!” In many cases, they are right. But what if, like in my village, the garden is just too far away to transport food or animal waste? Or if there is barely enough water to water the gardens, never mind a compost pile? Or that the garden becomes someone else’s rice paddy during the wet season? Ugh. Although challenging, it has been eye-opening to see the realities of “producing change” and the complicated interface of development work on the ground level.

But six months also means that I’m getting some meaningful projects off of the ground. Thank God. It feels wonderful to have a little bit of direction. Some of the bigger projects I’ve been working on:

Seed Bank and Conservation Initiative – Giving presentations to my five gardening cooperatives on how to conserve seeds, and then initiating a seed bank in each village. Gardeners can take seeds from the bank for free, but at the end of the season they must return double the amount that they took. Free seeds should therefore always be available. Hopefully this will ameliorate what seems to be a constant seed crisis.

Fruit and Vegetable Drying – I’m in the process of having a solar food dryer built (read: a wooden box covered with mosquito nets). The women of my village’s cooperative will dry mangoes with this, increasing the availability of fruit during the off-season and make a little money through a value-added enterprise J . Besides, who doesn’t like dried mango?

“How to Garden” Posters for the Illiterate – My art project! I get to sit in my house, listen to music, and draw vegetables. My posters describe, in a way which people who can’t read letters or numbers will understand, how to cultivate seven of the most popular vegetables. One is going to each of the gardening groups in my commune (20+).

Demonstration Plot – This has been a wonderful opportunity for villagers to watch me wrestling with my African hoe, or literally beating the earth with a stick, and say “Oh look, Ganegui! Look at that white girl trying to garden! How cute!”  We have four new vegetables growing in their own plots to introduce a little bit of variety. We are also keeping accounting books for each of them to look at the financial feasibility of these vegetables and provide a basis for basic illiterate accounting skills.

Anyways, I’d like to give a shout out to everyone who has sent me letters and packages- You guys are absolutely wonderful J . When having a rough day, nothing is better than to sit down and look at a card from home. I hope everyone is well, and keep me updated on your lives! I will get better about responding to letters and packages, I swear.

Friday, December 23, 2011

L'Harmattan (When it's dry, dusty, and cold in Benin)

Happy holidays from Benin! I am currently at the fourth PC workstation in Benin, and I must say that this northerly post is by far the coziest and most tight-knit. I spent Thanksgiving here as well, when fifteen PCVs descended upon it to celebrate Thanksgiving Benin style, which meant without a turkey because live turkeys are simply too much of a boisterous travel companion. Well, I’ll clarify that that is the case for the uninitiated PCV. Beninese people have a wonderful knack for live animal transportation and appear unfazed by the prospect of a few goats on the roof or chickens in the lap.
Back in village, the dry season (i.e. – it hasn’t rained a single drop for two months and a half) has ironically brought with it the gardening season. Small(er) scale gardening clustered about the disparate water sources (a river and a pump) replaces large scale agriculture, less feasible during the dry, dusty season the north experiences.  Everyone in village is busy harvesting their crops, lighting fire to their fields, and, for some, getting ready to plant their gardens. Thus, village has become a ghost town during the day as people head to the fields to pick cotton, the largest contributor to GDP in Benin and a topic which is on the tip of everyone’s tongue throughout my town. If the road is not bustling with Mac sized trucks bearing tons of cotton heading across the Atlantic, it is literally littered with hundreds of cotton balls. With the harvesting of the cotton crop, people are beginning to have a little more time to shift their efforts towards clearing out their communal gardens.

Thus, this newfound activity also means I get to see a little bit of the work that the gardening cooperative of my village does and the challenges they face. Drama surrounds, in particular, the group’s pump because it was poorly placed and constructed. This means that if there is water in it, during the mornings it is only on a first come first serve basis. However, the other groups I work with face different challenges. I bike to at least one of my five villages a day, all the while praying that I might meet someone who could at least pretend to know French. Generally, I bike into village amidst swarms of children (and the occasional adult) who are screaming “BATURE!”. Luckily, I am usually able to escape these gaggles due to the speed my bike lends me, often only to have them catch up as I stop to ask someone where the president of the gardening group is. On these days, I thank God for my trusty 21-speed, silver Trek mountain bike J . When I find her and a French speaker, either an impromptu meeting with the entire group forms or we wander over to look at the status of the garden and chat about what’s going on. Now that my first three months of “integration period” at post are over, I can actually begin my primary and secondary projects, meaning I can hopefully be a little more useful to the women and hold meanings to give them technical advice. 

I have several other secondary project ideas that I hope to begin in the next few months, including:
  • Accounting for illiterates in my groupements (“is growing those cabbages really getting you any money?”)
  • Moringa tree plantation (reforestation and excellent for nutrition!)
  • Fruit and vegetable drying (the availability of fruits and vegetables during certain parts of the year is a huge problem in northern Benin)
  • Demonstration garden plot
  • Middle school garden
  • Panel of professional women for Women’s Day
  • Mango grafting
  • Mud stove construction (to save firewood and money)
    • World map at the high school! (people here often have very little knowledge of geography)
    • Seed bank (seeds are difficult to get in my village and expensive – we’ll see what we can conserve and trade…)
    Anyways, I hope that you all have a wonderful holiday season and best wishes from Benin! Keep in touch.